Japanese Black Pine Bonsai

By Ruth Morgan

If you’re looking for a classic bonsai species then look no further than the Japanese Black Pine bonsai. It is a strong, majestic tree that can survive the rugged barren conditions of mountains.

Japanese Black Pine trees (Pinus thunbergii) have many characteristics that make them suitable for bonsai. The bark, which is a charcoal-grey colour, becomes deeply fissured in fairly young trees, conveying the impression of age. The branches also thicken quite quickly. The dark green needles are thick and can be quite long (up to 15cm) so pruning is required to reduce their size.

Unsurprisingly for a species with a natural mountainous habitat, they should be kept outdoors and in full sun. Growth and budding will suffer if the tree is kept in part shade and the needles with become longer.

Even though it is a hardy species it should be protected from cold winds and when the temperature falls consistently below -5oC in the winter.

Classic Japanese Black Pine Bonsai

Don’t overwater and ensure that the soil is very free draining as it is susceptible to root rot if the soil is wet for a long period. There is some debate about the best feeding regime but vigorous growth will result from balanced feeding throughout the year. In these conditions appropriate pruning will be required to reduce the length of the needles.

Pruning pines requires a different approach to that used for pruning deciduous trees and some conifers. This is because most pines exhibit only one flush of growth.

Branch pruning should be carried out in the autumn or winter as there is likely to be less loss of resin then. The resin leaves a white stain on the bark. If small stubs are left they can be styled into jins at a later date. If a branch is to be cut close to the trunk the wound will heal quicker if the pruning is done in the spring.

Due to its pattern of growth the shaping of Japanese Black Pine needs to start early. Bear in mind that due to the apical dominance of pines, the strongest growth will be on the top and outside of the tree. Therefore, the techniques for improving pine ramification e.g. bud selection and needle plucking will be applied differently depending on the area of the tree.

Wiring is best done in the autumn and winter.

Japanese Black Pine should be repotted every 2 to 5 years in spring. If the beneficial white fungus Mycorrhiza is present ensure some is transferred to the new pot.

Care for Bonsai – Over Centuries!

By Ruth Morgan

One way of assessing whether you are giving the right care for bonsai is to apply the test of time. Do the bonsai trees thrive as the years pass or do they wither and die?

And if you want to take this to the extreme you can ask how do you care for a bonsai to ensure that it lasts for centuries?

Yes – that is possible! Take a look at the website of the United States National Arboretum if you don’t believe me.

Amongst their many displays is the National Bonsai and Penjing Museum in Washington which is an inspiration for bonsai enthusiasts. Here you can embark on a virtual tour of one of the largest collections of bonsai trees in North America.

The collection started in 1976 with a gift of 53 bonsai and 6 viewing stones from Japan to mark the Bicentennial of the United States. Since then many more bonsai have been added and there are currently 150 specimens in the collection.

Here are some of them. There is a magnificent Japanese white pine which can be traced back nearly 400 years to 1626. It experienced the loving care of the Yamaki family for many generations prior to being donated to the collection.

And since the Yamaki family lived within a couple of miles of the site of the atomic bomb explosion in Hiroshima this bonsai truly is a survivor.

A magnificent trident maple in the collection dates back to 1880.

Several of the trees have connections with American presidents. There is an 80 year old Ezo spruce which the Japanese Prime Minister presented to President Clinton in 1998.

The collection also houses the Goshin masterpiece created by John Naka. This is a spectacular planting of juniper in the forest style.

Like all bonsai, these magnificent trees are living plants and continue to change over time. They are testament to what can be achieved when bonsai are given the appropriate care over many years.

Here’s the link to the National Bonsai and Penjing Museum.

Bonsai Wire

By Ruth Morgan

One of the essential tools for shaping bonsai trees is bonsai wire. The wiring technique involves coiling wire around the branches and trunks and then bending them to the desired position. Once some growth has taken place the branches will stay in the set position and the wire can then be removed.

Most bonsai will require wiring at some stage in their development to achieve the right shape. Those new to bonsai are often nervous about wiring their bonsai for the first time but with some help and practice the skill can be mastered.

Bonsai wire sets branches in position

There are two types of bonsai wire – anodised aluminium and annealed copper. The copper wire is harder and more powerful than the aluminium wire. For this reason beginners are advised to start with aluminium wire. The plastic coated wire sold in garden centres is not recommended.

Bonsai wire comes in different thicknesses and as a general guideline the wire should be one third the thickness of the branch or trunk.

To ensure appropriate spacing of the wire on the branch or trunk aim to apply the wire at an angle of 45o. Hold the wire in one hand and the branch with the other.

Always try to anchor the wire e.g. on the trunk or by wiring two branches together. Start off with a piece of wire that is one third longer than the branch to be wired.

Once wired the branches can then be bent to shape gently. The flexibility of the branches will vary depending on their thickness and the species of tree.

The best time to wire bonsai trees will depend on the climate and the species. Also there is wide variation in the length of time required for branches to set after wiring. Generally conifers take much longer than deciduous trees.

It is important to check the tree regularly for damage and to remove the wire it it cuts into the bark. This is done using wire cutters. Some people unwind the wire so that it can be used again. But this can result in damage to the bark or the snapping of branches.

Topics: Bonsai, Bonsai Tools

Chinese Elm Bonsai Tree

By Ruth Morgan

Anyone who is new to growing bonsai will not go far wrong with a Chinese elm bonsai tree. Its growth pattern is predictable and it is easy to prune and shape as a bonsai. The broom style is popular but it can also be shaped into most bonsai styles. So it’s an ideal species on which to practise bonsai techniques.

Chinese elm is an ideal bonsai tree for beginners

It’s a versatile species and is suitable for both indoor and outdoor growth. When grown outdoors Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia) is deciduous but if grown indoors it will remain more or less evergreen.

The appearance of the bark is variable. Some varieties have smooth bark whilst others have rough, corky bark with deep fissures. Care needs to be exercised when wiring as the bark can be easily damaged.

The varieties with smooth bark are generally not as hardy as those with rough bark and they should be acclimatised slowly to cold conditions. So if they are to be kept outdoors during the winter they should be placed outside in the autumn to allow them to harden up.

The toothed leaves are small and dark green in colour. When pinched, a new shoot grows from the base of nearly every leaf and this results in a dense herringbone pattern of growth.

Chinese elm needs to be kept moist throughout the year. At certain times e.g. in the spring, during high temperatures or when the sun is strong, the tree will require more water.

For outdoor bonsai the feeding regime will consist of high nitrogen during the spring and then balanced feed until late summer. Indoor bonsai trees should be given balanced feed on a weekly basis during the spring and summer and monthly during the winter, apart from when they are out of leaf.

The roots of Chinese elm grow vigorously and unless they are pruned regularly the tree will not thrive.

Chinese elm can be kept in full sun but should be given partial shade in very hot conditions. Some shade is required when it is kept indoors. In winter protect from harsh winds and prolonged periods of rainfall.

For more information about growing bonsai go to Beautiful Bonsai Secrets.

Bonsai For Sale

By Ruth Morgan

In many supermarkets, malls and garages you will see bonsai for sale. Similarly, if you search on the internet you will find many sites where you can buy bonsai cheaply.

For those new to growing bonsai these might appear a convenient way of buying a bonsai tree. However, there are many potential pitfalls to this approach.

In many instances these so called ‘bonsai trees’ are nothing of the kind. They are often just plants that have been put in small ‘bonsai type’ pots without giving them the appropriate care and opportunity to grow and develop beforehand. Another tell tale sign is the nature of the soil. Bonsai trees require a particular type of soil to allow them to thrive.

So a very common scenario is for the buyer of such trees to get them home and to find that they die very quickly. That can be disheartening and can convince the person that looking after bonsai trees is too difficult. For these reasons I recommend a different approach to buying a bonsai tree.

Buy bonsai from a reputable source

A relative newcomer to bonsai will require proper advice and guidance. If you know experienced bonsai growers they are usually only too happy to share their knowledge.

If this isn’t possible I suggest you visit a local nursery or specialist bonsai supplier. You can then look at the quality of their plants and tress. Depending on the stage of development, the price of their bonsai trees is likely to be more expensive than those on garage forecourts or auction internet sites.

And there is good reason for that – they have been given the appropriate care over a period of time and they may have been transported some distance.

The cost of buying more well developed and mature specimens will obviously be greater than younger specimens which will need to be grown before placing in their bonsai pots.

There are an increasing number of reputable bonsai sellers on the internet and once you have sufficient knowledge you can then consider buying bonsai trees in this way.

Topics: Bonsai, Bonsai Trees

Bonsai Garden

By Ruth Morgan

There is nothing more inspiring for the bonsai enthusiast than to spend time visiting the bonsai garden of a renowned bonsai artist.

In the past that would have meant travelling to the bonsai garden, walking around and experiencing the beauty of the bonsai trees first hand. As a result only a select few were able to see the trees. Nowadays, with the development of technology and the internet, many more of us can enjoy the experience of viewing personal bonsai collections.

I highly recommend the website of Walter Pall – a world renowned bonsai artist. Walter lives near Munich in Germany and has been growing bonsai trees for 30 years. In his bonsai garden he has about one thousand trees at different stages of development, with a similar number of hand made bonsai pots.

He has lectured on bonsai and demonstrated different techniques at workshops in many parts of the world. Anyone who attends his lectures cannot fail to be impressed by his knowledge, creative flair and his infectious enthusiasm for bonsai trees.

His bonsai garden is truly awe inspiring. His emphasis is not on the rules of bonsai but on allowing natural shapes and creativity to influence the designs of his trees. From his award winning Rocky Mountain Juniper to his beautiful deciduous bonsai trees you see the handiwork of someone at one with nature.

Walter is also a superb photographer and his website is full of amazing photos of his bonsai garden where you can follow the changes that occur throughout the seasons. For those who can travel, he is happy to welcome visitors to see his bonsai collection.

Click here to view Walter Pall’s bonsai garden.

There is a danger for bonsai enthusiasts when looking at such websites. That is to become disheartened and to think that you can never achieve anything like that. I empathise! But please take heart – you can grow beautiful bonsai trees in ones and twos without having 30 years experience!

If you want an easy to understand step by step guide to help you on your way go to Beautiful Bonsai Secrets.

Fukien Tea Bonsai

By Ruth Morgan

There are many different types of bonsai, all of which require specific care. Fukien Tea bonsai is no exception.  It is also known as Carmona microphylla or Ehretia buxifolia. Fukien Tea is an evergreen shrub-like plant that is named after the southeastern Chinese province of Fukien (Fuijan) where it originates.

It is a tropical plant and is ideal as an indoor bonsai. It thrives in the hot humid conditions that you might find in kitchens but it needs to be protected from draughts.

Fukien Tea has small, dark green glossy leaves that grow on prolific shoots. Its dense foliage is easily pruned to your chosen bonsai style and wiring is not necessary. It produces minute white flowers that later form berries.  If given the right conditions (heat and humidity) the flowers can be seen all year round.

It is easy to find Carmona in bonsai nurseries but it can be difficult to care for, particularly if you are a beginner. Below are some tips that will help you. If you are new to growing bonsai, you may want to do some research first, but do not be discouraged from experimenting.

Fukien Tea needs good light but it should be protected from continual direct sunlight. If kept indoors, ensure that the foliage does not get burnt by the sun coming through the glass windows. Only about one hour of direct sunlight is needed each day.

When growing outdoors, place in direct sunlight either in the morning or the afternoon, but not both.

Fukien Tea should be kept in the temperature range 15oC to 25oC. It can and should be placed outside during the summer months when the temperatures are hot. During this time, the transition from indoors to outdoors should be made carefully. Carmona does not like too much fluctuation in temperature.

Water regularly and using a humidity tray will help to ensure good humidity levels. Feed every two weeks from spring to autumn and then monthly during the winter with a low nitrogen feed.

Though Fukien Tea Bonsai may be a bit more difficult to grow than other plants, it can be a fun challenge to take on. The reward will be a unique bonsai plant which, when treated with care, will produce beauty and will last for a very long time.

Bonsai Trees – Windswept Style

By Ruth Morgan

Constant wind from one side creates this windswept style

If you walk along the cliff tops by the sea you will not go far before seeing the effect of nature on the trees.  Fierce winds batter the trees so that most of the branches grow away from the wind. This results in the windswept style and it is possible to imitate this in bonsai trees.

It is a natural style which most people will be familiar with as it is one of the most dramatic styles of tree.  It is often favoured by those new to bonsai who are usually unaware that it is very difficult to create a successful windswept bonsai.

This is despite the fact that there are no rules as such about the shape of the trunk or where the branches are located.

There are two types of windswept style.

Firstly, the tree that is constantly buffeted by winds will always look windswept. Most of the branches grow on the sheltered side; those that do grow on the side facing the wind are shorter.

Secondly, there is the temporary windswept style. This represents the scenario where trees are subjected to a temporary gust of wind. Such trees are not obviously unbalanced in their branch structure. The smaller, lighter branches of the tree are affected to a greater degree by the wind than the stronger, heavier branches.

Here are some tips for creating a windswept bonsai. It is easier to create the desired effect using an evergreen tree than a deciduous tree. Juniper would be a good specimen as it naturally grows in these windy conditions.

Try and choose a specimen that has a sturdy trunk and already has more branches on one side than the other. Remove most of the remaining branches from the side facing the wind, leaving some short broken pieces. Jins can be created from these to mimic the effect of nature.

Plant to one side of the pot with the foliage extending into the empty space. If appropriate a rock can be added to represent the natural habitat of the windswept style.

Ficus Bonsai

By Ruth Morgan

Ficus (fig) is a very popular tree for indoor bonsai. If you want to grow Ficus bonsai there are plenty of young specimens for sale in garden centres and at bonsai specialists. Ficus also grows well from cuttings.

It is a tropical tree and so thrives in hot temperatures and moist conditions.  Unlike many indoor bonsai Ficus is relatively easy to grow and shape. It is therefore an ideal choice as an indoor bonsai for the beginner.

There are hundreds of different species of Ficus and they can grow as shrubs, trees and climbers.  Many are suitable for growing as bonsai.

Popular bonsai species include F. benjamina (weeping fig), F. salicifolia (willow-leaved fig) and the classic F. retusa (Chinese banyan).

A characteristic of many figs is that aerial roots are produced from the trunk and branches. Some bonsai enthusiasts like to incorporate these aerial roots into the tree design.  The effect can be stunning, particularly in clasped-to-rock styles.

Ficus bonsai can be grown indoors all year round but they will benefit from being outdoors when the temperature at night does not fall below 55oF (12.5oC).  It is best to acclimatise them gradually to sunlight. The higher humidity levels and increased light will improve the health of the tree.

Ficus should be placed in a well-lit position indoors and ideally the temperature should not fall below 59oF (15oC).  They should be protected from draughts.

Do not over-water – test the soil to see if it is dry before watering.  The tree should be fed every two weeks during the growing season.

Ficus can be pruned throughout the year but the spring is an ideal time for hard pruning. If you water one hour before pruning, the white sap that bleeds from the wounds will stop quicker.

If wire is used to shape the branches it should be checked regularly because the bark swells rapidly in the growing season.  This can lead to scars within a few weeks.

Most bonsai styles can be used with Ficus.

Juniper Bonsai

By Ruth Morgan

The hardy juniper can grow on mountains

Juniper is a popular bonsai tree. There are more than 50 species of this evergreen shrub and they are frequently found on hillsides and mountains.  Some of the classic Japanese juniper bonsai are more than 200 years old.

Juniper is a hardy variety and should be kept outdoors throughout the year.  It can withstand frost and will only need protection if temperatures are consistently below freezing.

Juniper thrives in full sun but can tolerate semi shade. Without sunlight there is a risk that branches will wither and die.

Most styles are suitable for juniper bonsai. You will often see cascade styles which mimic the natural habitat of the tree, clinging to the mountainside. Sharis reflect the large sections of deadwood often observed in nature.

A popular bonsai species is Chinese Juniper (Juniperus chinensis) which is quite easy to grow. You can achieve wonderful colour contrasts between the green foliage, grey-brown outer bark, orange-red under bark and the white-silver sharis and jins.

Juniper branches are relatively easy to wire but can take some time to set in position.   Branches which are a couple of years old respond better to wiring than older ones which are thicker and more rigid.

Ensure that there is sufficient water during the growing season but take care not to over water as juniper is susceptible to root rot.  So it is important to use free draining porous soil. Feed on a regular basis, omitting nitrogen in the autumn.

To maintain the right silhouette, continual pinching out of all growing tips is essential. It is best to wait a few weeks after growth has started in the spring before starting to pinch out. Use fingers and not scissors or the ends will turn brown.

Repotting should be carried out regularly, every two years initially and then less frequently.  Mid spring is the best time for repotting though it can be done later.